Sunday, July 25, 2010

The Southwestern Monsoon

Our blog has been quiet for the last several months for a variety of reasons, but mostly due to the arrival of warmer weather and a shift to outdoor work. There are always a multitude of things that need fixing or maintenance, the vegetable garden needs tending along with what has been the major project of the summer – the remodeling of the original straw bale cottage that we built back in 1990. Most of my past blog posts during the winter were largely image driven and since I haven’t spent much time with the camera, some of my motivation has been missing. This past winter Mexico was great in that we had nothing else to do, but absorb the contrast we were experiencing to life here in the States. The intensity and passion of life there provide constant opportunities for good photographs.

However, I got somewhat of a wake-up call recently from readers complaining about the lack of posts to the blog. So what else to do, but write something. Otherwise I'd be overtaken by guilt and the pressure to accomplish something. So here begins an account of some of what we’ve been up to here at home.

Southeastern Arizona, spring through early summer, is a period of waiting for rain. It’s a time of contrast, the cottonwoods and other local trees, burst forth with vibrant green leaves as the overall landscape becomes increasingly dry. In what amounts to somewhat of a reverse autumn, the leaves of the local oaks turn orange and yellow, drop their leaves and provided it has been a winter of average moisture, immediately sprout new green leaves.

Emory Oak getting ready to drop its leaves, early May.

The vibrant cottonwood tree leaves of early spring.

The sky, normally a rich deep blue, fades and desaturates. We repeatedly comment to one another how gray everything appears.

Cloudless June sky.

The heat steadily increases, typically reaching its summer peak during the month of June. The humidity drops steadily to what feels like a negative value.

Turkey Creek in front of our house, normally full of water, dries during the months of May and June, waiting for the monsoon rains to make it flow again.

In the midst of this somewhat harsh landscape, many of the local plants, notably the cactae and agave families, attempt a balancing act with displays of brightly colored flowers.

Apache Plume flower.

Huachuca agave flowering.

Forest of Huachuca agaves near our home.

Prickly pear cactus blooms.

Bees in mass visit the prickly pear flowers in the morning, finishing their work around mid-day.

Rainbow cactus flowering in June.

Spring bird arrivals contribute as well - Vermilion Flycatchers, Orioles and Scarlet Tanagers. It's a fascinating time as well for wild edible plants, but more on that in another post.

Vermilion Flycatcher.

By the end of June, it’s easy to get the feeling that it’s never going to rain again and that the summer will be a bust when it comes to moisture. Although common sense dictates otherwise, there comes a point when one is absolutely convinced that it will not rain. Even the wisest succumb to this temptation.

It is this heating and drying that coaxes the jet stream gradually northward and in turn, the winds shift to a more southerly direction bringing humid air from the Sea of Cortez and the Gulf of Mexico. Large cumulonimbus clouds (thunderheads) appear as the humid air combines with the summer heat, signaling the beginning of what is called the “monsoon season.” During that period we can receive up to as much as 50% of our annual rainfall. These rains, “las aguas,” as they called in Mexico, ultimately arrive and relieve the tension that has been building for months in the landscape, people, plants and animals. June 24th, San Juan’s Day, is considered by many to be the beginning of the summer monsoon season, but my experience suggests that this date applies to the region further south in Mexico, For the most part, the 4th of July seems a more realistic date.

Palmer's agave blooming at the beginning of the monsoon season.

In this part of the world where water is scarce, especially true for those who are closely tied to agriculture, the monsoon rains are a critical life event. Good monsoon rains are reasons for celebration. They make people happy, possibly ecstatic, bringing prosperity and health instead of depression, famine and sometimes death. Whether one is religious or not, everyone knows that they are “gifts of the gods.” When they are late, even the non-religious can be found praying and making offerings.

Early July, the skies darkening over our home for an afternoon rain.

The monsoon arrival takes many forms, sometimes it struggles and stutters, sometimes with a furious downpours that last for weeks on end. This year, through the early part of July, the monsoon stuttered with occasional brief showers that typically bring little more than frustration and fear that the monsoon will amount to little more. It is only when the fury of a fierce downpour happens that one’s confidence is restored in the goodness of the universe. However, it is essential that the first downpour be followed relatively soon by another, otherwise doubt and depression can easily return.

Once the rains start, we rarely irrigate the garden the months of July, August.

Rainfall amounts for the two month monsoon season of July and August vary, some years more than others. In my 25 years in Canelo, the worst year I can remember totaled 6 inches for the two months and over 20 inches for some of the better seasons.

Our patio with an afternoon shower.

Summer pizza in the clay oven delayed by rain.

From the early signs, it looks like this year might be somewhere in between. We’ve had two heavy downpours and numerous light showers. The grass is turning green, most days are overcast, the dew point is hovering around 60, humidity ranges from 50 to 75% and the temperatures have settled back down into the 80s where they will most likely stay until September. To say the very least, it’s an amazingly comfortable and beautiful time of year, just about as close to perfect as one can get.

Turkey Creek in Canelo after a rain. On the average, thundershowers last anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, after which the skies usually clear, leaving a soft beautiful light behind.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

A Great Blog on the Rio Sonora Valley


It's spring in Canelo, our April workshops have finished and I've been here at home, taking the time to work on various odds and ends here on our property and buildings. It's a luxury I haven't always had in the past few years so I'm enjoying it fully. Athena just returned from a couple of weeks with her mother and family in New Mexico. I've been here with our other two boys and intern Cecilia from Italy. So therefore, no recent posts to this blog, I do have some planned, but amidst various chores and projects, they are slow in coming.

However, I stumbled onto this what I'll call an absolutely brilliant couple of blog posts of a young couple who traveled to the Rio Sonora valley with their Airstream trailer. As I remember it was their first trip to Mexico. The writing is both humorous and gives an accurate account of the area. The link for the site is: http://turkeydawgblog.blogspot.com/

There are two posts that talk about the Rio Sonora, I recommend scrolling down and reading the one at the bottom before reading the one at the top. It is entitled "Airstreaming Mexico." Follow that with "Bringing the Heat."

The photo above was taken at a home on the Rio Sonora during the month of November, a time when chile ristras line the entire valley.


Thursday, May 6, 2010

Arizona Immigration to Music

In case you haven’t noticed, and it’s kind of hard to miss, the state of Arizona’s recent immigration legislation SB1070 has caused somewhat of an uproar both here in the States and abroad. Reactions to the bill have not been what you would call subtle, whether pro or against. We seem to have a tradition here in Arizona for doing things that are not exactly insightful. Last thing we managed along these lines was refusing to honor the Martin Luther King holiday that even Ronald Reagan signed into law

The city of Tucson took a step to distance itself from the city of Phoenix, the driving force behind the Arizona legislation. It voted 5-1 to sue the state to overturn SB 1070. The Phoenix Suns basketball team changed their jerseys for their Cinco de Mayo game with the San Antonio Spurs to read Los Suns in protest.

I don’t think you need me to be reporting on this topic, but I recently contributed a series of photos to Eugene Rodriguez of Los Cenzontles, for use in conjunction with a song/ballad he had written about this recent legislation called Estado de Verguenza (State of Shame]. In Mexico, this type of ballad would be more appropriately be referred to as a corrido. Los Cenzontles is a grassroots artist-driven organization committed to amplifying the roots of Mexican culture through classes, events, media and performances.

Eugene Rodriguez and wife Astrid.

This audio slideshow can be seen on youtube at - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnvM5tK2_cw

Fabiola Trujillo and Lucina Rodriguez of Los Cenzontles

Ry Cooder has agreed to produce a new version of the song performed by Los Cenzontles with Lucina Rodriguez and Fabiola Trujillo doing the vocals. They’re fabulous singers and will add a great touch to the song. Since its release a couple of days ago, the corrido has taken off and been picked up by newspapers and television stations such as Telemundo and Univision. Some of those links include:

http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-17101-LA-Arts-Examiner~y2010m5d4-Mexican-folk-group-Los-Cenzontles-compose-song-in-reaction-to-the-new-Arizona-law

http://www.univision.com/contentroot/wirefeeds/inmi/8201169.shtml

http://noticias.telemundo23.com/2.0/3/288/672878/Entretenimiento/Hacen-un-corrido-como-critica-a-la-ley-migratoria-de-Arizona.html

Check out their website, www.loscenzontles.com, particularly the link to their touring band, http://www.themockingbirds.info/, that contains an assortment of videos and music along with information on their latest recording American Horizon, that tells a musical story of immigration, work and the American Dream. On this recording, Los Cenzontles team up with David Hidalgo of Los Lobos and Taj Mahal. They also recently collaborated with The Chieftans and Ry Cooder on an album called San Patricio, in honor of several hundred immigrants and expatriates, mostly Irish, who defected from the U.S. Army and fought as part of the Mexican Army against the U.S. in the Mexican-American War of 1846-48.

Apart from this song, Arizona’s SB1070 has generated an incredible amount of dialogue. From my perspective I think the issue is much more complicated and has implications that extend well beyond the Arizona border. The best thing I’ve seen written about it was a piece by op-ed columnist Frank Rich in the New York Times.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/02/opinion/02rich.html?src=tp

Another article that is indirectly tied to this recent legislation concerns the recent killing of a rancher along the border in southeastern Arizona. The killing played a major role in propelling the immigration-enforcement legislation into law.

http://azstarnet.com/news/local/border/article_35ef6e3a-5632-5e58-abe7-e7697ee2f0d5.html

Friday, April 23, 2010

Fast Changing Southeastern Arizona Weather

If you saw the straw bale photos from last week you would have noticed participants wearing short sleeve shirts, shorts and the like. Thought you might appreciate this photo taken about 10 am this morning.


Tomorrow we are supposed to have a high of 68 F, sunny skies, a few scattered clouds.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Artistry with Clay and Lime

Someone reminded me that it might be a good idea to post announcements about any upcoming workshops that we're having. I thought, "Geez," perhaps that would be a novel idea. Publicity is usually the last thing on my mind, but I suppose it would be most sensible. Obviously, this is a little last minute since our next workshop begins this Saturday evening, but maybe I can make it a habit for the future. So here we go.

April 24th thru May 1st we are holding the workshop that we call Artistry with Clay and Lime. Our website - www.caneloproject.com has a full description, but in short, what we cover during the workshop is a variety of plasters including clay, clay/lime and lime. These range from thick base coats that can be used on uneven and irregular surfaces to very thin, highly polished finishes. All can be applied to just about any type of wall surface, really doesn't matter. One thing we emphasize is improving participants ability to use plastering tools. We have made great strides in recent years having learned a great deal from Japanese clay craftsmen.

In addition, we cover sculpting plasters and one of the course highlights is learning from Athena to create carved plaster designs. For more examples of these, look to older posts of this blog while we were in Europe. We also cover different uses for straw/clay blocks, clay furniture, earthen floors and homemade paints. It's a fun workshop, the kind of thing that can dramatically expand creativity and options. I'll leave it at for now, more info is on our website.

Below are a few samples of plasters we'll cover during the workshop.

Our straw/clay base coat plaster, or if you happen to be in Japan, the "arakabe" coat that is used on bamboo lath walls.


Polished blue lime plaster that is finished with olive oil. This is a new technique that we learned from Japanese plaster craftsman Noda-san this last December.


Carved lime plaster done by our son Benito.



Monday, April 19, 2010

The Canelo Project - Straw Bale Comprehensive Workshop, April 2010

Spring for us typically means workshops, this year is no exception. As you know from previous posts, much of winter was spent traveling in northern Mexico, part of which was spent speculating and planning for straw bale buildings in the near future. Anyhow, once or twice a year, we teach a straw bale workshop as part of our Canelo Project workshops. For those not familiar with our work, they might be more correctly termed straw bale/clay buildings or houses in that we use as much clay soil as straw in the construction process. This year we did a small auxiliary building, allowable under the building code without a permit, due to the interior square footage that measures less than 120 square feet, for friends Jon Bolin and Shelly Eversole. Location of their site was approximately fifteen minutes from our home thereby allowing us an easy commute to the site.

The following images portray the building as it unfolded over the week of the workshop.


Most of the foundation was done before the workshop. On Sunday, we brought the group to the site to complete work on the foundation. Monday we spent in Canelo building the window and door frames along with the box beam for the top of the walls. For this type of building, the foundation consists of a concrete footer and stem walls of concrete block with foam insulation sandwiched between.


Cleaning and detailing the straw bales by removing the excess straw on the ends so that the bales will fit together more tightly in the walls.


We worked half days at the site, Tuesday morning we began stacking bales on the foundation. By lunch we had finished all but the last course on top of the walls.


Wednesday morning we finished the top course of bales and assembled the box beams on the tops of the walls. The 3/8 inch all thread that we use to compress the walls and attach the roof to the foundation was also installed. Total compression for these four bale high walls was two inches.


Finishing the installation of the box beam on Wednesday morning.


Wednesday morning, last phase of tightening the all thread for compression.


Late Wednesday afternoon, Oso and Benito, finished up details leveling the box beam, checking the all thread connections that are seen penetrating through the tops of the walls.


Thursday morning was spent mixing plaster and clay slip for the walls to be applied on Friday. The same afternoon we toured several straw bale homes in nearby Patagonia. From a distance, the walls late Thursday afternoon. The Mustang mountains in the background.


Beginning to fill the gaps between the bales with a mix of straw and clay slip.


On Friday we worked the full day at the site. The first half of the day was spent filling the gaps in the walls between the straw bales with a mix of straw and clay, attaching sisal rope to all the wood framing members to make a connection with the clay plaster, detailing the window opening and assorted other odds and ends.


Sisal rope attached to the rough buck of the door, vertical bamboo pins and all thread used for compression.


Final window detailing before plastering revealing the peel and stick flashing and metal sill pan.


The girls Monica, Julie and Tracey screening clay soil through a quarter inch screen for use with plaster and clay slip.


Friday afternoon began by coating the straw bales with a clay slip to make adherence of the plaster easier.


Following the clay slip, the base coat of straw and clay plaster was added. This coat of plaster typically totals about an inch and a half in thickness. In about 2 hours the exterior of the building was finished with the base coat. At the same time, our sons Oso and Benito installed the roof trusses.


With the setting sun, the base coat was completed and scored, textured for the finish coat.


Benito and Oso worked through Saturday to complete the roof decking. By Sunday afternoon the metal roofing was installed as well.


Images from Ranchito La Martina

I have been fortunate, a large part of my life over the past 25 years has taken place along a straight line that runs from Ciudad Obregon, Sonora, Mexico in the south to the Hopi lands in the north of Arizona. Most of it has been at our home that is located in southeastern Arizona in a tiny town named Canelo, situated at the base of the Huachuca mountains. If lucky, you might find it on a map; otherwise you might pass right through unless you happened to catch the small sign that bears its name and elevation. A coffee-table book kind of place it is not. It is part of a swatch of oak woodland that is tucked into the Coronado national forest, unknown or forgotten to most. It never had enough water, arable land, timber, mineral resources or magnificent vistas to make it highly desirable for development or travel. Writer Charles Bowden once described it as sort of a “Bermuda Triangle” a place where grand plans and visions vanish without a trace. Simply put, it’s too nondescript for those seeking excitement and opportunity, except perhaps for birders who relish the abundant species of birds that can be found in the region. Add to that its proximity to the border with Mexico where illegal crossers, drug smugglers, numerous Border Patrol vehicles and border violence are all too vivid reminders of our neighbor to the south. It’s beauty can be elusive, only to be found in that which is ordinary and simple.

Our straight line, with its oaks and grasses continues south, uninterrupted by the Mexican border, as if it didn’t exist, eventually giving way to the Rio Sonora Valley that we have photographed and written about this past winter. It too is a place not encumbered by fame or outstanding characteristics, kind of like us. However, there is enough farmable land to sustain a number of small towns along it and enough mineral resources to have attracted numerous European settlers over past centuries. But like our home, its value and beauty can only be found in the simple and ordinary. And that’s what I want to share with you in this post.

When editing images from our last trip to the region I had several that didn’t fit the larger overview I had written. And since we might not have anything to write about the area for a while, I thought I would go ahead and post them, mostly because I like them. The subject - a tiny insignificant place in the global scheme of things called Ranchito La Martina. I wrote about it briefly in my last post along with Don Ramon Ochoa, his sons and grand-daughters. These images give a slightly deeper glance into this little place, typical of many small Mexican ranchitos, it lies just on the outskirts of the town of Banamichi.

Tucked discretely into a thicket of mesquite trees I came across La Martina while riding a bike along the back roads of the river. Looking through the gate I could see four men who appeared to be engaged in quiet conversation; it held too much intrigue for me to pass up. Their gathering appeared private and not particularly hospitable; to enter implied what might have been an intrusive move on my part. However, over the years, I’ve learned that the initial distance felt in those kinds of encounters is for the most part due to shyness and a certain amount of insecurity. After a brief internal debate about whether or not to enter, I walked into their midst. Approximately five minutes of somewhat awkward conversation transitioned into laughter and a friendship that extended into their larger family over the next few days. These images tell a small part of that story.

Entering La Martina.

Older brothers, Alfredo and Ramon Ochoa. Working many years in Colorado, where he found little else but constant work and television, Ramon returned back home to Banamichi, where he earned much less money, but at least had a life and family.

Younger brother Conrado with father Don Ramon Ochoa, with bags of onion tops, tallos, draped over his saddle, for sale in town.

The original Ochoa ancestors who settled in the Rio Sonora Valley, the father Ochoa, the mother with the surname Bonn, more than likely was from France.

Large mesquite tree in the center of La Martina.

Corrals made from mesquite tree branches.

Corral gate with slab of wood from the palo chino (havardia mexicana).

Grey mare of Conrado Ochoa.

The hearts of agave pacifica being accumulate for the distillation of Sonoran mescal bacanora. There is no exact term that describes the men of the region, they are not cowboys in the strict sense of the word. The Ochoa family men distill fine mescal; have cattle and are cowboys in the finest sense of the word; keep milking cows; make cheese; grow vegetables and forage for their animals.

Alfredo Ochoa roping his mule to make saddling easier.

AlfredoOchoa guiding us to an old Opata indian site on the hills overlooking the valley at Banamichi.

Don Ramon with friend Moises over coffee and caldo, soup of prickly pear cactus pads and onion tops, tallos.

Flowers can be found at almost every home, ranch, the containers or pots used are of endless variety.